When people think of Europe, usually it gets divided into Western and Eastern parts, in a political line that the Cold War left after it finished. In this divide the Balkan peninsula somehow seems to be blurry. It’s like there’s a hole between Austria and Greece. Like these South Slavic people couldn’t fit into Western or Eastern Europe. Even if it’s out of instinct, the countries that made up former Yugoslavia (plus obscure Albania) seem to not belong in Europe. Slovenia and Croatia have become more known over the last decade or so, but the rest of ex-Yug is still quite off the beaten path. But they’re missing out on the best of Sarajevo!
Most people wonder where is Sarajevo. I get it, I knew really little about Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH) before I visited. Because of my studies I knew a lot about the war there in the 90’s, when it broke away from Yugoslavia. But I could barely tell you more about the country itself than a few city names. I have read about Sarajevo, its capital, defining itself as the place where the east meets the west, and that statement got stock in my head, that’s why it made it to my list. The mix of religions, ethnicities, traditions, and rulers throughout history made it completely logical. Western and Eastern Europe clashed in this part of the world, that’s why it feels like it doesn’t belong to any. It has a soul of its own. It’s a crossroads of different worlds. It’s close enough to be in the interest spheres of both east and west, but not close enough to be assimilated by any. This singularity gives BiH its uniqueness.
To understande it a bit better. here’s my Sarajevo travel guide, with all the must-see places in the city.
The Politics
BiH has been part of many empires and has been ruled by many different peoples. From the Illyrians, to the Romans, to the South Slavs, to the Ottomans, to the Austro-Hungarians, to the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes, to the Independent State of Croatia, to Yugoslavia, to a bloody war that gave it its independence, BiH is today a place where cultures, ethnicities and religions coexists. I wish I could say peacefully…
It’s impossible to understand what’s going on in BiH today without knowing a bit more about the ethnicities of the area. Since the arrival of the South Slavs in the 7th century, they started to grow apart, under the influence of different religions: Islam, Catholicism and Orthodox Christianity, developing into today’s Bosniaks, Croats and Serbs.
Well, Yugoslavia put them all under the same roof, an experiment that was a ticking bomb. Until it exploded. Everyone wanted independence. But BiH was trapped between Croatia and Serbia. To put an end to the war, a peace agreement was sign. BiH would be an independent country, composed of two entities: the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, inhabited mostly by Bosniaks and Croats, and the Republika Srpska, populated mostly by Serbs. However, the nationality of all three ethnicities is Bosnians. I know, it’s horribly confusing. And it gets worse!
To make it clearer: Ethnicity: Bosniaks, Croats, Serbs; Nationality: Bosnians, Croatians, Serbians. If you are born in BiH, regardless of your ethnicity, you’ll be a Bosnian. But most will use their ethnicity instead of their nationality to identify themselves.
The presidency of the country is tripartite, which means a three-member body that collectively serves as head of state: a Serb elected by Republika Srpska, and a Bosniak and a Croat elected by the Federation. A three-headed monster, like in mythology, the one that ends up eating its own body. Literally, a nightmare to reach any important decision. Never looking to the well-being of the country as a whole.
The saddest thing is that all three ethnicities are South Slavic people, and have a very similar cultural and historical heritage (I’d say the same, but out of respect of readers that might differ, I’ll stick to ‘similar’). Even the language is, with few distinctions, the same. However, emphasizing the differences is deeply ingrained in them, every nation having a strong sense of its own national identity.
The Wars
Today in Sarajevo there are reminders of the wars the country has endured everywhere. I’m sure you can remember school lessons telling you that First World War started with the assassination of the Archduke Franz Ferdinand. Where? In Sarajevo.
There are reminders of the Yuguslav war too. The ones that I found incredibly touching are the Sarajevo Roses, a concrete scar caused by a mortar shell’s explosion that was later filled with red resin. Isn’t that the most artistic and beautiful way to remember?
Activities to learn more about the wars the city has witnessed…
The Best of Sarajevo
Walking around the city
The architecture also allows you to see the country’s historical fate and geographical position. Walk around Baščaršija, and you’ll feel like you are in Istanbul’s Sultanahmet, turn to Marijin Dvor and you’ll be transported to Vienna. Continue to Ciglane and you’ll find yourself in the middle of communist Yugoslavia. Truly, Sarajevo is where the East meets the West, at the heart of Europe.
Don’t leave the city without learning a bit more about the horrors of the latest war. Galerija 11/07/95 is the best place to do so. Prepare yourself, though. What you’ll see is truly heartbreaking.
The abandoned venues of the Winter Olympics
Another great way to see and learn more about Sarajevo’s history is to go to the top of the mountains that oversee the city, to the abandoned venues of the Winter Olympics, which Sarajevo hosted in 1984. Back then no one would have imagined than only a few years later the tracks would be used as the front line of a war, let alone that they would facilitate the siege of the city. See, Sarajevo is in a valley, so when the Serbs took control over the mountains surrounding it, the city fell. And the siege lasted for almost 4 long years.
Today the area is still full of mines (you can easily find them walking around), but even so, Sarajevo is a vibrant, cool city, that managed to transform something somber into beauty.
A window to the bloody past: War hostel
If you’re a history freak like me, I’d recommend that you stay at the War hostel. It’s a small hostel, run by a family that survived the war and that is willing to share their personal stories with the world. You’ll find items from the war which serve as decorations, sleep in a bunker bed, and drink rakija in a room lighted by a candle, as it was during the war. This is clearly not for the ones looking for comfort, but if you want a unique experience, this is the place to get it.
The dad served in the Bosnian Army during the war, and he took me to the frontline, where the Olympic ruins are. Nothing beats seeing a place with a local, right?
The People of Sarajevo
Beyond the history and the architecture, what really should convince you to visit BiH is its people. Bosnians have a heart of gold, and the best sense of humor I’ve ever encountered. They will invite you over for a cup of coffee or for a shot of rakija (the local spirit around the Balkans) after meeting you for a few minutes. They will treat you like you’re family. The will show you the greatest smiles you’ve ever seen. And they will joke about themselves, and about all the tragedies they have endure in a way that you will wish they actually were your family. When you visit, make sure you have time to talk to the locals. Learning a couple of words in their language will take you a long way (and it will help you also in Croatia, Serbia and Montenegro, where the language is basically the same).
Quick guide: The 5 things you need to know to make friends in BiH
What’s your name?: Kako se zoveš?
My name is…: Zovem se…
Nice to meet you: Drago mi je
Thanks: Hvala
Please: Molim vas
Cheers!: Živjeli!
If you’re visiting for more than a couple of days, I’d recommend to get a phrasebook!
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Booking.comI guess you’re absolutely intrigued with this fascinating country. When you plan your trip do yourself a favor and leave some time to explore a bit further than Sarajevo. I’d suggest to grab a bus and spend at least one day in Mostar and a few more in its surroundings. I’ve been there a few times in different seasons, and I loved it! I’ll write about my experience in these places in a future post. If you want to see the highlights of the country hassle free, I strongly recommend any of this fantastic tours:
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I learned about Sarajevo in history class and since then have wanted to visit. Thanks for sharing all of these helpful tips!
Hope you get the opportunity to visit soon. You’ll be walking through all you learnt. It doesn’t get much better!
I’d love to visit the old ski tracks- I’m a nut for URBEX
The whole Winter Olympics abandoned venues are so interesting. If your thing is URBEX, then you’ll love BiH!
Incredible photos, looking at them, I kind of was there. Thanks for this opportunity! I’m impressed!
I’m so glad you feel that way! I love it when my photos are inspiring! ❤️
That Olympic track is sooo cool! I remember reading about it when one of my friends visited it. She mentioned that while she was in Sarajevo, people kept asking why she visited/why she wanted to go there.
When there are so many places suffering from over-tourism, this amazing spot needs a bit more love!
The tracks are outside the city, and a walk around can be dangerous if you don’t know where you’re going, that’s probably why people don’t go. But it’s well worth the trip!
I couldn’t agree more about visiting a bit more off the beaten path destinations. BiH is perfect!
What a really interesting place, full of so much history. I grew up in Europe in the 90s and all I knew of Bosnia was it was always on the news because of the war. It’s amazing to see them not try to forget that but to really use it as a unique thing that people can experience and learn about when they visit
It’s quite amazing how they’re are able to build something beautiful from something so dark. That’s one of the things that make Bosnians so awesome!
Great guide on a city that I’ve heard nothing but good things about.
Thanks, Lynne! I can second all you’ve heard -Sarajevo is pretty amazing!
WHOA. You saw a mine?!? That’s kinda terrifying. I’m totally sold on the War Hostel, I am really keen to go back to Sarajevo as I loved it (and also the weather was terrible so I didn’t get up to the Olympic track) so I think I’ll try and stay there next time. Fantastic post!
Thanks so much, Clazz! I love Sarajevo too, so I’ve been back few times already. You’ll see how different the city looks in different seasons, so it’s totally worth it to revisit! Absolutely don’t miss the Olympic tracks. Maybe the guys from the War hostel will still be able to point to a mine. It’s scary, but also quite amazing to witness.
I have never heard of these countries either but your photos are breathtaking! What a gorgeous area.
The Balkans are among the most underestimated places in Europe, but are really worth a visit! I’m happy you’re discovering a bit more of the world through my posts ❤️
This would be amazing to visit. I love the idea of filling the mortor blasts with a different color resin.
It was really smart and artsy. Just lovely!
My father is of Yugoslavian heritage so I love this history lesson that I just got. I would love to someday visit the now Croatian Island that he is from.
I bet he’s from either Brac or Korcula. Both are beautiful! Hope you get to visit soon ❤️✈️
I love travelling to places that is rich in culture, history and architecture and Sarajevo ticked all my boxes!
I’m happy you’re getting inspired, Krizzia! I’m sure you’ll love BiH!
A great blog..Yet, saddened my heart all about the war. Thanks for the enlightenment.
It’s impossible to understand BiH without learning about the wars, so even though it’s sad, it’s important. Thanks for your words, Elsa! 🙂
What a beautiful tribute to a piece of our world’s history. Thank you for sharing and for the beautiful pictures to help bring us along for the journey.
That’s such a sweet comment! Thank you, Tiffany! I’m happy you enjoyed the post, I loved writing it!