Palmyra is more than just an archaeological site, it’s a symbol of Syria’s layered history, a city that thrived on trade and defiance. Once a powerful hub on the Silk Road, Palmyra rose to prominence under the reign of Queen Zenobia before falling to Rome, then centuries later, to the devastation of modern war. Today, its ruins stand as both a tribute to its grandeur and a stark reminder of its destruction. Walking through its remnants is a journey through time, one that reveals the resilience of a place caught between empires, conflicts, and cultural erasure. Let’s explore what it’s like to visit Palmyra now.
FAQ
Is it safe to visit Palmyra now?
Travel conditions in Syria have drastically changed since the overthrow of the al-Assad government, but the country is in a transitional period, so caution is still advised. While independent travel is allowed, it’s best to check the latest government advisories and I’d suggest considering hiring a guide for Palmyra.
Do you need a special permit to visit Palmyra?
Travel regulations in Syria can change frequently. In the past, visiting Palmyra required permits and security clearance. Reports say that’s not the case anymore. Still, it’s best to consult the governmental guidelines or ask a local guide for the latest requirements.
How much of Palmyra is still standing after the war?
Many of Palmyra’s most iconic landmarks, such as the Temple of Bel and the Arch of Triumph, were destroyed during ISIS occupation. However, key structures like the Grand Colonnade and the theater still stand, offering a glimpse into the city’s former grandeur.
What’s the best way to get to Palmyra?
Palmyra is located in central Syria, about 215km/134mi northeast of Damascus. Due to ongoing security concerns and limited infrastructure, it’s recommended to go with a tour guide rather than travel independently. With that said, there are minibuses both from Homs and Damascus heading to Deir ez-Zor that will leave you on the highway –from there you can walk or take a motorcycle ride to the ruins.
Is Palmyra being rebuilt?
There are discussions about restoring Palmyra, especially given its UNESCO status. Some conservation efforts have begun, but large-scale reconstruction remains uncertain due to political and financial challenges.
In-depth guide to Syria’s iconic desert city
Traveling back in time to one of the most important trade and cultural centers of the ancient world was high on my bucket list. Palmyra was not only a great merchant city, but one that defied the power of Rome. It’s the kind of place that’s so iconic that even if you know very little about Syria, the Middle East, or the history of the Silk Road, most likely you’ve heard of it.
Sadly, it has gained even more popularity in recent news, for all the wrong reasons. In 2015, in the height of the Syrian war, ISIS blew up Palmyra’s two main temples and three funerary towers. Although the government gained control of the area back, to this day there are little clusters close by still ruled by ISIS, making tourism in the ruins particularly challenging.
So when I was given the option to join a trip to Syria that would visit Palmyra, I immediately jumped in (I wrote extensively about the trip and the layers of history of the country, so make sure you go to that post next: Traveling to Syria: insights on visiting under the al-Assad regime).
Visiting Palmyra: a journey through Syria’s ancient heart
*I visited in June 2024, before the overthrow of al-Assad’s government. I left the tale of this heading unchanged to keep a historical view on what it was like to visit Palmyra during the dictatorship. As mentioned earlier, Syria’s travel conditions have changed significantly since then. While independent travel is possible, I recommend hiring a guide for Palmyra. Without expert insight, it’s difficult to grasp the significance of what you’re seeing. A knowledgeable guide can provide historical context, explain the impact of the war, and help you appreciate the ruins beyond their physical remnants.
“We have to start the day as early as possible so we don’t bake”, we’re told. Even though it’s early June, the temperatures are expected to soar past 40°C/100°F by midday, so the plan is to visit the shadeless ruins before we get cooked by the relentless sun.
“5:30?” I shyly suggest. “6:30” I’m told. There’s no point going earlier because the road needs to be secured in the morning, and if we show up earlier, we won’t be able to pass.
I feel a little uneasy for a second, letting my imagination run wild on what could happen overnight on a road towards the desert. But I quickly let the unwelcome feeling go, knowing that there would be enough checkpoints to keep us safe. There were 9 in a stretch of 165 km (100 mi) from Homs to Palmyra –and another 15 on the 250 km (155 mi) road from Palmyra to Damascus.
And they meant business. I can’t exactly pinpoint what it was, but they felt more ominous, maybe grimmer, for sure they were more armed than in the rest of the country. The whole route becomes more militarized by the mile. Trenches, bunkers, satellites, barb wired areas –all commonplace. We passed a tank. An occasional lone motorcycle, and a shepherd with his herd. Then another makeshift military outpost in a moated area. More bunkers. And more trenches with machine guns. Even a 12th century Arab castle occupied/used by Russian military. All manned, ready for action.
For the first time on this trip, seeing pictures of the al-Assad clan made me feel at ease. The enemy here are not Syrian rebels, but a real, hardcore threat: ISIS. And those are about the last people on earth I’d like to encounter.
After what seemed to be an endless stretch of desert road, we got to a small village in rubbles: Tadmor –better known for its Greek derived name, Palmyra.
A brief history of Palmyra: the Silk Road’s desert jewel
The situation today is dire, but the history of the place is fascinating. So let’s start our tale there, explaining how Palmyra is a microcosm of the history of Syria.
Palmyra’s history is one of resilience, adaptation, and power struggles –much like Syria itself. Rising from the heart of the desert, it became a major trade hub, linking the Roman and Persian worlds while maintaining a fiercely independent identity.
The city’s origins trace back to at least the second millennium BCE, when it was a small oasis settlement known as Tadmor. Its location made it a crucial stop for caravans traveling between the Mediterranean and Mesopotamia, bringing immense wealth and cultural exchanges. By the first century CE, Palmyra had transformed into a flourishing city under Roman rule, blending Greco-Roman, Persian, and local Semitic influences.
Palmyra’s golden age came in the third century CE under Queen Zenobia, one of history’s most fascinating and ambitious leaders. After her husband, King Odaenathus, was assassinated, Zenobia took control and launched a bold expansionist campaign. She declared Palmyra’s independence from Rome and extended her influence deep into Egypt and Anatolia, challenging the empire itself. Her reign was short-lived, however –by 272 CE, Emperor Aurelian crushed her rebellion, took her prisoner, and reduced Palmyra to a provincial outpost.
Over the centuries, Palmyra remained an important but diminished city, falling under Byzantine, Arab, and Ottoman control. Though it never regained its former grandeur, its ruins stood as a testament to its storied past. This mix of prosperity, conquest, and survival echoes Syria’s own history –a land at the crossroads of civilizations, often caught between empires yet maintaining its distinct identity.
Palmyra at war: destruction, ISIS occupation, cultural erasure, and recovery
Palmyra became a battlefield during the Syrian Civil War, suffering immense destruction at the hands of both warring factions, and deliberate acts of cultural erasure by ISIS. The site was first captured by the terrorist group in May 2015, marking the beginning of one of the darkest chapters in its history.
Under ISIS control, Palmyra was transformed from a celebrated UNESCO World Heritage site into a stage for executions and propaganda. The group carried out high-profile killings within the ruins, most notably the execution of Khaled al-Asaad, an 82-year-old Syrian archaeologist who had dedicated his life to Palmyra’s preservation. In an effort to erase historical legacies they deemed un-Islamic, ISIS systematically destroyed key monuments, including the Temple of Bel, the Arch of Triumph, and the Temple of Baalshamin. The destruction was not only symbolic but also financially motivated, as ISIS profited from selling looted artifacts on the black market.
«Black-bannered brigades started to enter Syria, filling the vacuum and taking advantage of international inertia and the disarray of the opposition» – Diana Darke on ‘My House in Damascus: An Inside View of the Syrian Crisis’.
The Syrian government, backed by Russian airpower, launched an offensive to retake Palmyra in March 2016. However, ISIS recaptured the city in December that same year before finally being expelled in March 2017. Each round of fighting caused further devastation, with both ISIS and pro-Assad forces contributing to the destruction through bombardments and military operations.
Given the extent of the damage, UNESCO added Palmyra to its List of World Heritage in Danger, citing widespread looting, the deliberate targeting of its most significant structures, and the overall instability of the region. Even after ISIS was driven out, concerns remained about ongoing threats from conflict and the long-term feasibility of restoring the site.
Palmyra under al-Assad: restoration and propaganda
When the Syrian government regained full control of Palmyra in 2017, the site laid in ruins. The Syrian and Russian militaries used the victory as a propaganda tool, portraying themselves as the saviors of cultural heritage, despite the significant damage inflicted by their own airstrikes and artillery during the battle.
In the years that followed, restoration efforts were slow and politically charged. Russian experts took the lead in some preservation initiatives, including plans to reconstruct the destroyed monuments. However, the Syrian government’s limited resources, continued instability in the region, and international reluctance to cooperate with the Assad regime all hindered large-scale restoration efforts.
Why Palmyra still matters: geopolitics and power struggles
Palmyra’s strategic significance is not a new phenomenon –it has been a vital crossroads for millennia. Situated in the heart of the Syrian desert, it historically served as a key trade hub between the Mediterranean and the Persian Gulf. Its location made it a powerful city during the Roman Empire and later a contested prize for successive regional powers.
In the context of modern geopolitics, Palmyra’s position continues to play a role in broader territorial struggles. The city lies near the Euphrates River valley, a region of immense strategic importance due to its proximity to key supply routes and oil fields. During the war, the battle for control of Palmyra was not just about symbolism or heritage –it was about securing a crucial corridor between Damascus and Deir ez-Zor.
To the east of Palmyra, separatist movements, particularly those tied to Kurdish factions and Arab tribal groups, have sought greater autonomy from the Syrian government. While these groups primarily operate further east in areas like Deir ez-Zor and Hasakah, their proximity underscores the ongoing fragmentation of Syria.
Exploring Palmyra: what’s left of the Great City
Stepping into Palmyra today is like walking through a ghostly echo of its former splendor. The golden limestone ruins still shimmer under the desert sun, but many of the structures that once made this city legendary now exist only in memory and scattered fragments. Luckly our resourceful guide brought pictures and showed them from the same perspective they were taken –not even close to having been there pre-ISIS, but an encouragement to use our imagination.
Visiting Palmyra is a lesson on humility. Even the greatest of empires end up in rubble. No matter how great the kings or queens once were, or how powerful their realm was, how much wealth it had, or how relevant it was, none has been able to withstand the pass of time.
Now that you have a better understanding of the history and politics, let’s walk through what remains of this legendary city.
The Grand Colonnade: a walk through time
The journey begins along the Grand Colonnade, a magnificent avenue that stretches for more than a kilometer (nearly a mile) through the heart of the city. Some columns still stand defiantly, their weathered surfaces whispering stories of traders, priests, and warriors who once passed beneath them. Others lie toppled, victims of both time and war. The colonnade was the backbone of Palmyra, connecting its most important structures, and even in its ruined state, it gives a sense of the city’s vast scale.
The Temple of Bel: a sacred space lost to extremism
At the end of the colonnade stood the Temple of Bel, Palmyra’s most sacred and imposing structure. Dedicated to the Mesopotamian god Bel, this temple was an architectural masterpiece, blending Greco-Roman, Persian, and local influences. It stood for nearly 2,000 years –until 2015, when ISIS militants reduced it to rubble in a deliberate act of cultural erasure. Today, only portions of its massive outer walls remain, the temple’s absence more powerful than any standing structure. Walking through the remnants, you can almost hear the echoes of ancient prayers that once filled this space, now silenced by destruction.
The Arch of Triumph: fragments of glory
A short walk from the temple brings you to what’s left of the Arch of Triumph. This intricately carved gateway was one of Palmyra’s most photographed landmarks, a symbol of the city’s prosperity under Roman rule. ISIS blew it apart, but some of its elements have been recovered and await reconstruction efforts. Even in ruins, the arch’s remnants stand as a reminder of both the heights Palmyra reached and the depths it was dragged into.
The Theater: a stage for tragedy
Palmyra’s Roman theater, a beautifully preserved semicircular structure, once hosted performances for thousands. In a grotesque perversion of its purpose, ISIS used the theater as a site for executions, turning a place of art into a backdrop for horror. The theater still stands, but its recent history casts a long shadow over its stones.
Hidden in one of its corners was Damascus, a little Bedouin girl, named by her father in honor of their country, playing around, oblivious to what the site has been through. He was a bit further away, making coffee as a welcome to the handful of tourists that the morning brought, in hopes of selling a few souvenirs. For a minute I focused on taking photos of the girl, bringing a smile to her face when showing her the results. It was such an appreciated cheerful instant among the heaviness of the day.
The Funerary Towers: traces of elegance, scars of war
Beyond the main city ruins, scattered across the desert hills, stood Palmyra’s famous funerary towers –tall, multi-story tombs where the city’s elite were laid to rest. These towers were unique in the ancient world, adorned with elaborate carvings and intricate burial chambers. ISIS, seeing them as idolatrous, dynamited many of them.
Inside the underground tombs, the destruction was even more heartbreaking. Walls that once held vibrant paintings were crudely whitewashed. Statues of the deceased, carefully sculpted to honor them in the afterlife, were decapitated. Amid the wreckage, a chilling handwritten message by ISIS remains on one of the walls: “Brother fighters, help your brothers by cleaning up after you eat”.
The contrast is staggering. A place once meant to honor the dead, crafted with skill and reverence, was reduced to terror and used for the most mundane of purposes. The greatest empire of its time succumbed not to a rival civilization, but to senseless brutality.
Palmyra’s future: restoration and tourism
Despite the devastation, Palmyra is not gone. There have been some limited conservation efforts, but large-scale reconstruction remains uncertain, hindered by political instability and financial constraints. Yet more than archaeological efforts, it’s the return of visitors that could breathe life back into the site, that even in rubbles is fascinating.
Before the war, Palmyra’s ruins attracted thousands of tourists, sustaining a vibrant local economy. Hotels, restaurants, and small businesses that once flourished around the site –now only a literal shell of what they were– still are waiting for travelers to return. For the local community, restoration is not just about recovering their heritage –it’s about rebuilding their livelihoods. Without tourism, both the ruins and the people who depend on them face an uncertain future.
Visiting Palmyra today is more than an interest in archeology. It’s an act of support. Every traveler who walks its streets, learns its history, and shares its story helps keep Palmyra from fading into obscurity. In the end, its survival depends not just on restoration efforts, but on the world remembering why it matters.
Palmyra is a city that refuses to be forgotten. It’s a place where civilizations rose and fell, where cultural heritage was nearly erased, yet where history still will no be silenced. Though much of it lies in ruins, its spirit endures in the stories of traders and rulers that once thrived here. The destruction it faced is irreversible, but its legacy continues to captivate those who visit and learn its history. However, the extent to which its past can be preserved will depend on continued efforts to restore the site and revive tourism.
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